Wednesday, May 30, 2007

starts and stops

we arrived in loreto safely and found Ivette to give us the keys to the house and proceeded to try to start getting some work done. easier said than done.

the first day we launched the boat we drove down to Puerto Escondido, but that was only after I had cancelled the first day of diving because the weather report said wind gusts up to 25 kph. it was very calm that day. so the day we actually launched it wasn't super rough but it was a bit choppy and the visibility was puro guacamole. when we got to the launch ramp i used last year was closed off and we were directed to the other side of the port to use the new ramp with its NEW PRICE!! $286 PESOS!!! PER DAY!!! what the heck? that's $30 bucks a day to launch. my tinytinytiny boat. ack. so i decided until i could find the proper person to talk to about the price, we would launch from loreto (FREE) and work at Isla Coronados.


i like Coronados because the east side of the island is all rock formed from lava flow. it looks way cool


this is heading out of the muelle (harbor) early in the morning. before the sun went into the clouds it was a GIANT red disk on the horizon. so bummed i missed it.


pretty flowers. oh hey what a cool truck in the background!

so we were able to get some dives in and then DUHN DUHN DUHN i could dive because i had **coughfemalecough** issues. and then we were able to start up again and then sarah got an ear infection.

on the otolith front unfortunately


there's just a lot of standing around.


there's been an influx of squid and therefore dorado so now the fishermen are going after the dorado. but they're not catching so much becuase there is soooo much squid that they're not biting. one captain told me that they just throw bait at them and they're not interested. and then when he finally hooked one it threw up a stomach full of squid. the only people that are fishing for leopard grouper are the commercial guys. sarah found a guy with two huge buckets of grouper at the muelle and asked them if we could measure and take the otoliths and they were saying um no and then when i arrived they only let me measure two of them and absolutely positively had no interest in letting me cut the heads open because they sell them whole to the pescaderia per kilo. i tried to explain how i do it and what i take and NONONO. buh bye.

so then i grabbed one of my captain friends and asked him to go to the pescaderia to buy cabrilla. i bought the two biggest ones. this is the biggest one right before he filets it.


if you can guess how much two grouper that are 89 and 83 centimeters long (about 13 kilos/27 pounds weighed together) cost then you can probably guess why they're fishing the hell out of them.

Tuesday, May 29, 2007

things to do before leaving for mexico

inventory gear
pack gear
buy truck
pick up boat
COSTCO trip for supplies
call su and eric
empty storage area and move stuff to house to save money on storage area
find diver assistants
project proposal
write out checks for three months of bills
worry about money
update DAN insurance
buy mexican insurance for truck
pick up diver in LA
clean off shelf in fridge
worry about money

Monday, May 21, 2007

it's happening all over mexico

it's definitely happening here in Loreto, coastlines are being swallowed up by developments.

from:
http://www.nytimes.com/2007/05/20/business/yourmoney/20resort.html?pagewanted=1&ei=5070&en=4ffd1bf2e0bda562&ex=1180324800&emc=eta1

you may need a password, i've pasted some here...

Who Controls Paradise?

Adriana Zehbrauskas for The New York Times
Goffredo Marcaccini at his estate in Jalisco, Mexico, where he lives with his wife, Alix Goldsmith. They are opposed to a development project involving two of Mexico’s most powerful families. More Photos >

By RON STODGHILL
Published: May 20, 2007
COSTA Alegre, Mexico

Adriana Zehbrauskas for The New York Times

CRUISING along the swerving, mountainous roads of Mexico’s western coast, past trees and vines, blue lagoons and scattered wildflowers, Goffredo Marcaccini stops his Jeep and thrusts his head out the window. “Ahhh,” he croons, inhaling the morning air. “The smell of the earth! Nice, like the scent of a woman!”

His reverie is short-lived. Farther along, he encounters roadside debris, including a bright blue Pepsi can. “Modern man,” he says, wincing, “is the cancer of the earth. We are only here to destroy.”

Mr. Marcaccini is a self-described romantic, a naturalist who waxes poetic about mangroves, giant sea turtles and the beauty of parakeets. He is also an heir to the late British corporate raider James Goldsmith, who once lorded over this richly virginal expanse of nature as though it were his own empire.

Since Mr. Goldsmith’s death in 1997, Mr. Marcaccini and his wife, Alix, the daughter of Mr. Goldsmith, have managed the late patriarch’s most prized asset: Cuixmala, a 2,000-acre private estate with several villas on the Pacific that at various times housed Mr. Goldsmith’s three families, mistresses and high-powered visitors including Richard Nixon, Henry Kissinger and Ronald and Nancy Reagan.

These days, though, there’s trouble brewing on Cuixmala, which is nestled inside the 32,473-acre Chamela-Cuixmala Biosphere Reserve, a rolling expanse of federally protected coastal land.

In an effort to expand tourism beyond destinations like Cancún and Puerto Vallarta, Mexican officials recently authorized the development of two resorts in the area. The most controversial project, called Marina Careyes — also referred to as Careyitos — is backed by Roberto Hernández, the powerful Mexican banker and developer who sold his financial services firm to Citigroup six years ago for $12.5 billion. Mr. Hernández’s minority partners are Gian Franco Brignone and his son Giorgio, Italian real estate magnates who relocated to Mexico and built a series of sumptuous properties in the state of Jalisco that made it a magnet for the super-rich.

The result is a pitched battle over land rights between Mr. Goldsmith’s heirs and two of the country’s most powerful families — a clash that sheds light on the fault lines between traditional luxury resort developers who favor golf courses, swimming pools and spas, and a newer breed of conservationist-entrepreneurs who champion eco-resorts where guests hike and canoe for recreation. The standoff smacks of a blood feud with roots going back decades to early land squabbles involving the Goldsmiths and the Brignones.

Political analysts in Mexico say the rift is also one of the first tests of President Felipe Calderón’s commitment to the environment. Elected last November, Mr. Calderón has earned some kudos from environmental groups for recently enacting a wildlife protection law, which prohibits activities that may damage Mexico’s coastal mangroves. At the same time, analysts say he is certain to face pressure from Mexico’s powerful tourism industry, which generates billions of dollars in revenue for the country but has also caused once-scenic coastlines to become clotted with megaresorts.

“We still need time to see how committed he his,” said Cecilia Navarro, a spokeswoman for Greenpeace Mexico, an environmental advocacy group. “He needs to keep firm, because we know that a businessman like Mr. Hernández has a lot of power.”

However the conflict at Cuixmala plays out, all of the parties involved are well aware of the influence they have — or don’t have — on the outcome. “Daddy would have had so much leverage in this,” Alix Goldsmith says. “He would have had prominent people in politics, environmental groups, scientists, artists signing a petition to the Mexican president asking for the law to be followed. But that’s why we have to be careful; here in Mexico, compared to a guy like Roberto Hernández, we’re nothing. Nobody knows Goffredo Marcaccini or Alix Goldsmith.”

Mr. Marcaccini’s assessment is more cynical. “This is the classic case of a civil society up against a manipulating government,” he asserts. “Anyone who tries to speak out here in Mexico is crushed like a mosquito.”

Mr. Hernández’s partners say that they are ecologically sensitive developers and that the first family of Cuixmala simply doesn’t want outsiders to encroach on its private enclave. Others, too, have said that Mr. Marcaccini and Ms. Goldsmith might be concerned about something other than their mangroves.

“The ecological policies in Mexico are being manipulated by private family interests,” said Octavio González Reyes, a columnist who covers tourism for the area’s newspaper, El Occidental, in Guadalajara. “This fight is all about economic interests, not the environment. What the Goldsmiths are interested in protecting is their own private emporium.”

ITS name inspired by the small former port town of Chamela and the powerful Cuixmala River snaking through the region, the Chamela-Cuixmala Biosphere Reserve is one of the most studied tropical dry forests in the world. During the transition from the dry to the rainy season, its lowland forest morphs from a muted gray to a lush green, and it attracts scientists who study its special flora and fauna. With the exception of federally owned lagoons and coasts, land within the reserve is mostly in private hands.

Saturday, May 19, 2007

Slightly behind

I was already a day behind and now I’m more behind. Sigh

Got mostly packed on Monday and after 14 hours I stopped and went to bed. Got up at 5 to start over and now I’m somewhere north of the grapevine. I wasn’t able to leave before 9 like I wanted and I had a brilliant idea of heading west down i-80 to get to some small highways to make it over i-5 instead of going east into downtown sacramento to catch the interchange to i-5 (backtracking a little). Well, my brilliant plan DID NOT pay off. I was supposed to go 80 west to 113 south to 12 east and bam! There’s I-5. But NOOOOOOO. 113 was fine, if not a bit windy, then 12 was going well and then all of a sudden right before I-5 hwy 12 is closed. CLOSED. Cops everywhere blocking it so I have to take 160 south to hwy 4 and it takes forevvvvvvvvvver.

Oh btw I bought a new truck. That’s another post.

I wasn’t even sure if I would ever reach I-5. And when I finally did it took 2 hours to get someplace that would have taken 40 minutes if I hadn’t done my little experiment.

So I was finally movin’ along when I feel the entire truck pull back and then vibrate. The trailer tire had blown. I pull over to change it and it is seriously blown. All the tread is off and completely wrapped around the axle. I’ve got to pull everything out of the back of the truck while all these 18 wheelers are blowin’ by to get the jack. Nice. I take it off, put the spare on and when I let the jack down the spare goes FLAT! So NOW I have to call AAA and they’re all “ma’am do you have a spare?”

“um yeah, it’s on the trailer”

anyway, they don’t want to deal with my trailer and the shop is negotiating with AAA to see what they’ll cover in case they have to tow my trailer because the spare is flat.

The guy that came out was really nice and he inflated the tire and it worked and then he followed me to the next town to walmart (ACK!) to buy a tire. But walmart only had four hole trailer tires and I needed five hole trailer tires so I went down the road to another tire shop and they could get the tire tomorrow and they closed in 5 minutes. I couldnt’ commit. I went across the street to Carlos’ tire shop and they hooked me up. I ended up getting two tires because the one left was the same age as the one that blew and I thought you know, I don’t want to do this again thank you. especially in baja where there are no shoulders on the road.

So all that time sittin’ in the sun waiting burned me out and when I got back on the road I was able to go a couple hours but once it got dark my eyelids got really heavy. So I got off the highway. And now I’m hoping I can sleep with a lot of what I own strapped in the boat or on top of my truck (ok SUV) and not worry about it.

You know cuz I’m so chill about everything.

Wednesday, May 02, 2007

gettin' wet pt. II

Rafa knows i want to go to punta lobos on isla carmen (the main leopard grouper spawning site) so he can show me the place he said he saw "more than 300 big cabrilas." but the winds have been so bad and not many people coming in to dive. he made me a deal that when another customer comes to dive he'll take me there. finally, he got a customer and there was no wind so we headed out but when we got there there were fishermen perched on the rocks. he said we can't dive within 300 meters of them. "since when?" "since always"

oh.

i. did. not. know. that. oops.

but before we got to the dive site, on the way out we came across a large pod of bottlenose dolphins and they started riding the bow waves of the boat and surfing the wake. i'm embarassed to say i squealed like a little girl. it was super cool to while hanging over the bow watching them a mom and a tiny tiny baby (about 2 1/2 feet long) came up and rode the bow a couple of seconds and then glided off to the side. then a little farther along we came upon a juvenile humpback cruising around alone.

i just love this place because it doesn't matter HOW MANY TIMES i go out on a boat i always see SOMETHING that makes my heart race.

so, once we got to punta lobos and the fishermen didn't want us diving near them we went to the other side of the point which is still a site of mine so we throw anchor there. my goal whenever i come to this site is to 1) FIND GARROPA and 2) transects.

my garropa hunt is legendary. and i think i've finally found the best way to find them.

i go straight to the bottom where i know they usually are.

i sit on the bottom and take closeup shots of a rock. OR pretty things on the rock



when i feel like something is watching me i turn around and BLAM! there they are!

and then i try to get a couple of shots off and they're on their way out of the shot and visibility range.

this time there were three of them. they weren't the bigbig ones. these three were just over a meter, not the meter and a half to two meter bigbig ones. but now i have my garropa fix and i could do transects.

after the transects i go up to do my safety stop and happen upon a cleaning station with butterflyfish cleaning chubs. the chubs took off when i took the picture.


on the other side of the point, the fishermen had left so we were going to try the new spot. normally when i dive this site i stay along the reef that directly adjacent to the island. rafa said there's a very large rock a little bit offshore if you go perpendicular from the island straight off this one rock. so i head off the way he directed me and once i leave the adjacent reef it's flat sandy bottom for a little ways. the visibility isn't that great so i can't see the rock ahead of me and as i swim away i lose sight of the reef behind me but eventually i can see a hulking shadow in the distance so i keep kicking towards it.

then all of a sudden i realize that just outside a 1 meter radius beyond me there are tons of garden eels. and i look down and i see tiny holes in the sand. then i turn and look behind me and they are all up behind me. it's just in this circle around me that they are down in their burrows. because the visibility wasn't that great i couldn't get a good picture of them but just so you get an idea of what i'm talking about here's a pic from pbs. org (http://www.pbs.org/wnet/nature/sharkmountain/images/photoessay/9.jpg)


so i make it to the big rock and i start swimming around the perimeter. and i'm seeing HUNDREDS of grouper. everytime i turn a corner there's more and more. i'm just blown away. and then as i'm swimming i realize this rock is as big as a two story house it just keep swimming and swimming the perimeter and seeing all these grouper. i'm just blown away by all the grouper that i realize that i didn't take any pictures. i just watched them.

i have to head back towards the boat and as i get to the adjacent reef i realize i hadn't taken any pictures! dammit! and then i found this baby hawkfish so i decided i have to take pictures of that


at my safety stop, i hang around a rock that has a point sticking out of the water so it has a layer of barnacles and tubeworms and where there are barnacles and tubeworms, there are usually tubeblennies living in the empty holes. and sure enough